Rebecca Danger

Meet Vikram!

Hey friends! Guess what.......I have a new pattern for you today. Wohoo!

Here he is, Vikram the Velutinous Monster:

He's squishy, and cuddly, and fuzzy, and snuggly, and fluffy, and oh so huggable. As soon as I saw Caribou by Hikoo I knew I needed to design a monster using this yarn. It took me a good eighteen months to make it happen, but he is just as delightful as I imagined he would be. 

I haven't done a monster pattern in so long, guys! It feels great to put a new monster friend out for you all to knit. You don't have to do him in the Caribou, you can also hold eyelash yarn together with worsted weight yarn, or really any weight yarn for your monster. I wrote the pattern with Us Size 5 needles and the Caribou, but switch it up as you want. Because of the nature of this incredibly fluffy yarn I did not write this as a pick up stitches for the limbs style pattern like I've been doing because I thought it would be too big a pain in the behind to try an pick up with this yarn. You know what I'm saying, huh?

I already have him listed in my Ravelry shop and my Etsy shop. And, he's just in time for your holiday knitting (because you are being a good knitter and already started that in September, right?). 

Enjoy friends!

50% off Sale!

ALL My Books and Patterns are 50% Off!

Hey Friends!

From August 15th-August 31st everything in my Etsy and Ravelry shop is all 50% off! That means all single patterns, my all 13 monsters bundle, my all 33 pattern bundle, and even my books are all 50% off. (Edited to add: My eBooks are sold through my publisher, so they are not a part of my sale! Sorry for the confusion guys!)

I realized recently I have never done a sale on my patterns, and after 7 years of pattern writing, it is about time!

To receive your discount, simply enter BIGSALE82016 on Etsy as you checkout, or just checkout as usual on Ravelry.

Thank you all for your continued support, and happy knitting!

Happy Things Are Happening Around Here. Happy Colorful Things!

Hey friends.

I'm excited to share with you a project I've been working on. I just launched a new Etsy shop, full of my new line of colorful, happy jewelry! It's called Rebecca Danger Jewelry, you can visit the shop at www.rdangerjewelry.etsy.com. 

I'm having a grand opening sale until the end of August, everything is 15% off with the code GRANDOPENING when you checkout. Yeah!

I've just got the start going now and I'm adding new pieces frequently. Make sure to favorite me and keep checking back to see all the new stuff I've got up my sleeve!

I know this is a little different than what I've been doing, and don't worry, I am still working on patterns! I think this line will appeal directly to you knitters and sewers since it is definitely for color lovers! And my little art pins are great to use as shawl pins for all your hand knits. Here are some of my favorites:

Pug Brooch. These little sculpture guys work great as jewelry AND art pieces!

I call these Color Shift necklaces, they start with a dark version of a color and get lighter across three colors. They are the best go-to necklace that goes with anything, and I think this is my favorite color combo right now.

Gray gradient dangle earrings. These are my favorite earrings!

There is a bunch to look at so I picked one of my favorite versions from each of the three styles of pieces (brooches, necklaces, earrings) I have right now. You can see lots more, including a Yeti and Jackalope brooch, in my new etsy shop.

Thanks for your support guys!

Magnus Ragnar the Victorious Viking {A Free Knitting Pattern with Cedar House Yarns}

Hey friends! Guess what....today is a very exciting day. I have a FREE, full-sized knitting pattern for you guys! Are you excited? I am. Wait, did I already say I was excited?

So, my friend Jen started a yarn company last year, Cedar House Yarns, and as soon as I found out, I knew we needed to do a project together. So she sent me a pile of yarn, and this is what I turned it into. I have written the whole pattern into this post, but you can also download it through the link at the bottom of this page. Just keep scrolling to find it.

Please be sure to go check out and buy some of her yarn, her colors are beautifully saturated and rich, and the bases are lovely to work with and feel great as they slide through you fingers. www.cedarhouseyarns.com The little viking was knit with her Sapling Sock Sprouts, which are only eight bucks a piece. I love it!

Here, we, go!

Magnus Ragnar the Victorious Viking Knitting Pattern

A Little Bit About Magnus Ragnar

Magnus Ragnar is named after Jen of Cedar House Yarns son. She and I have been friends for years and so when I found out she had started a yarn company, I knew we needed to collaborate. And when I thought collaborate, I immediately thought Viking since her son is Magnus Ragnar.

So, to celebrate yarn Magnus, here is a Viking poem (written by Magnus Ragnar's dad and Jen's husband, Eric the Red). In case you are not versed in Viking culture, to "go Viking" means to sail on a longship, a creation nearly synonymous with Viking culture.

Magnus has gone Viking

From wind and wave striking

His deeds sung in glory

His ancestors tell the story

Seafaring to victory

His name, sealed in history

Magnus has gone Viking

Materials

Yarn

80-110 yards of yarn for the shirt and pants (A)

50-75 yards of skin color yarn for face, nose, ears, hands, and thumbs (B)

75-100 yards of yarn for hat, boots, belt (C)

50-75 yards of yarn for tunic (D)

70-100 yards of yarn for beard and hair (E)

15-25 yards of scrap white or gray yarn for hat base and horn (F) Alternately I used the same color as the body.

Needles

40” circular needle (for Magic Loop Method) in a size about 2 sizes smaller than those recommended for your yarn (example: yarn says U.S. size 8, use a size 6, or maybe even 5 instead)

40” circular needle (for Magic Loop Method) 1 size larger than your main needle (for Tunic, creates a slightly looser fabric for a part where stuffing wont show through)

Gauge

One of the greatest things about knitting toys is gauge doesn’t matter! For those of you who detest gauging as much as me, this is the perfect project for you. Simply use smaller needles than those recommended for your yarn to create a tighter knit fabric so that the stuffing doesn’t show through. My rule of thumb is to go down 2 or 3 needle sizes from the smallest size recommended for your yarn. This also means this pattern can be worked in any size of yarn! Try sock yarn for little nugget gnome, or worsted for a medium gnome great for tucking places in your house, or bulky for a big gnome perfect for hugs.

Notions

Scissors, tapestry needle, safety eyes/buttons/scrap yarn for eyes, stuffing, 15 removable stitch markers, or 14 removable markers and one not removable (to mark beginning of round), yarn holders (optional), row counter (optional, but very helpful), pins for making up (optional), Celtic knit button (3) for belt (optional, determine size based on the finished size of your viking).

Notes

Make a Loop:

1. Knit the next stitch, hold the stitch on the needle LH needle and do not transfer it to the RH needle (as to finish the st). 
2. Bring the working yarn forward between the two needles.
3. Move your thumb to where the yarn comes between the needles. Wrap the working yarn around you thumb, and run it back between the two needles, setting yourself up to work the next stitch on your RH needle.
4. Knit the same stitch you knitted before looping, and transfer to the RH needle to complete the stitch

Note: This version of loop stitch will add an extra stitch every time you make a loop, which will be evened out with the rest of the stitch pattern.

If the making a loop part seems confusing you can check out the videos on youtube.com (Here’s one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGKlbG_tHjI). Just remember the version here is a modified version and only the loop making part is the same. 

Modified Loop Stitch

R1: (Make a loop, K2tog) around

R2: (K2tog, Make a Loop) around

Repeat these two rounds to create your stitch.

Directions

Knit the Body

The body is knit entirely in A.

Using A and Turkish Cast On, CO 36 sts (18 loops). PM to indicate beg of rnd and join to begin knitting the body in the round using Magic Loop Method:

R1: Knit all sts from Turkish Cast On (36 total Sts)

Stop and place removable stitch markers in center of CO row below 7th and 11th sts in CO row (this marks where legs will be picked up).

R2: (KFB, K16, KFB) twice (40 sts) 

R3: Knit all sts

R4: (KFB, K18, KFB) twice (44 sts) 

R5: Knit all sts

R6: (KFB, K20, KFB) twice (48 sts)

R7-R37: Knit all sts.

After R37, stop and place a removable stitch marker in 4th, 21st, 27th, and 46th sts of rnd 37. These markers will be where you pick up sts for arms.

R38 & R39: Knit all sts 

R40: (K1, SSK, K18, K2tog, K1) twice (44 sts)

R41: Knit all sts

R42: (K1, SSK, K16, K2tog, K1) twice (40 sts)

R43: Knit all sts. After R43, stop and place a removable stitch marker in 3rd, 18th, 23rd, and 38 sts of rnd 43. These markers will be where you pick up sts for the head.

placing markers for head

R44: (SSK, K16, K2tog) twice (36 sts)

Cut your yarn, leaving an 18” or longer tail. Stuff the body now. Once the body is stuffed, use the Kitchener Stitch to close up the top of the body. You will want to add your last bits of stuffing as you finish closing up the seam.

Knit The Head

The head is knit entirely in skin color.

To Knit Separately, CO 32 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written.

R1: Using B color and starting in marker from st #3 on R43, PU 16 sts, 1 per stitch to marker in st #18. Then, flip to other end of your needle tip, and heading opposite direction (toward first st picked up), PU same 16 sts starting in st #23 and working towards st #38. You will now have 32 sts on your needles. First st picked up is first st of rnd. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method:

R2-R20: Knit all sts. Place removable st markers as you work:

R9: PM in sts 1 & 17 to mark for ears

R10: PM in sts 7 & 10 to mark for nose

R12: PM in sts 7 & 10 to mark for nose

R17: PM in sts 16 & 32 to make for ears

R21: (K1, SSK, K10, K2tog, K1) twice (28 sts)

R22: Knit all sts

R23: (K1, SSK, K8, K2tog, K1) twice (24 sts)

R24: (K1, SSK, K6, K2tog, K1) twice (20 sts)

R25: (K1, SSK, K4, K2tog, K1) twice (16 sts)

Stuff the head now. Add eyes using the nose markers to help determine where they should go. Cut your yarn, leaving an 18” or longer tail and use the Kitchener Stitch to close up the top of the head. Alternately you can place the live sts on waste yarn and wait until you have knit the ears and nose before you attach the eyes. Once the eyes are in place, you can slip the sts back to your needles and close the head then. 

Knit the Nose

Nose is knit entirely in B.

To Knit Separately, CO 10 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written and whipstitch to the face once finished.

R1: Using B and starting with marked st 7 on R10 of the head, PU 4 sts, 1 stitch per stitch across the face. Next, PU 1 sts from R11 of the head, in line with the last stitch picked up from R10. Then, flip to other end of your needle tip, move up 1 round to marked st #10 from R12 of the head, and PU the same 4 sts 1 round up, toward first st picked up. Finally, PU 1 st from R11, in line with the last st picked up on R12. You will now have 10 sts on your needles. First st picked up is first st of rnd. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method:

R2:-R5: Knit all sts

R6: K2tog five times around (5 sts)

Lightly stuff the nose. Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the nose

Knit the Left Ear

Ears are knit entirely in B.

To Knit Separately, CO 18 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written.

R1: Using B and starting with marked st #1 on R9 of the head, PU 9 sts, 1 stitch per round towards the top of the head. Then, flip to other end of your needle tip, move over 1 stitch to marked st #32 from R17 of the head, and PU the same 9 sts 1 stitch over, heading toward first st picked up. You will now have 18 sts on your needles. First st picked up is first st of rnd. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method.

R2-R4: Knit all sts

R5: K2tog nine times around (9 sts)

Stuff ears as desired (samples are unstuffed). Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the ear.

Knit the Right Ear

Repeat above instructions starting in marked st #17 from R9 of the head and moving toward marked st #16 from R17 of the head to make the second ear.

Knit the Left Arm

To Knit Separately, CO 14 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written.

R1: Using A and starting with marked st #46 on R37 of the body, PU 7 sts, 1 stitch per stitch toward marked st #4. Then, flip to other end of your needle tip, move up 1 round and PU the same 7 sts 1 round up, toward first st picked up. You will now have 14 sts on your needles. Be sure the beg of the round is to the back of the body for correct thumb placement. First st picked up is first st of rnd. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method.

R2-R54: Using A, knit all sts

R55 & R56: Switch to B. Knit all sts. You will remain in B to the end of the arm.

R57: (KFB, K5, KFB) twice (18 sts)

R58: K8, PM, KFB, KFB, PM, K8 to end of round (20 sts)

R59: Knit to marker, SM, KFB, knit to 1 before marker, KFB, SM, knit to end of round (22 sts)

R60: Knit to marker, SM, KFB, knit to 1 before marker, KFB, SM, knit to end of round (24 sts)

R61: K8, remove marker, k1, place next 6 sts on waste yarn. Pulling yarn across gap, k1, remove marker, knit last 8 sts to the end of the round. 6 sts on waste yarn for thumb, 18 sts rem on needles.

R62-R71: Knit all sts. 

R72: (K1, SSK, K3, K2tog, K1) twice (14 sts)

Cut your yarn, leaving an 18” or longer tail. Stuff the hand now. Use the Kitchener Stitch to close the hand.

Knit the Thumb

Thumb is knit entirely in B.

To Knit Separately, CO 10 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 (don’t add any where you PU in R1) and work rest of pattern as written.

Place 6 sts from waste yarn onto needles. Starting on outside of thumb (away from palm), work in rnd using Magic Loop Method:

R1: K3, PU 2 from join between thumb and palm, slide sts to cable, PU 2 additional sts from same spot, K3 to end of rnd (10 sts)

R2-R7: Knit all sts

R8: K2tog five times (5 sts)

Lightly stuff the thumb. Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the thumb.

Knit the Right Arm

Repeat above instructions starting in marked st #27 and moving toward marked st #21 from R37 of the body to make the second arm. Be sure beginning of the round is to the back of the arm for correct thumb placement. Be sure to knit the second thumb as well.

Knit the Left Leg

To Knit Separately, CO 18 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written.

R1: Using A and starting in marked st #7 from the base of the body, PU 7 sts toward the outside edge of the body. Then, PU 2 more sts from the increase rounds up the side of the body (look for the “bar” from the KFB’s). Next, using the other end of your needle tip, begin at marked st #7 again, move towards the front of the body 1 stitch and PU the same 9 sts 1 stitch forward, toward first st picked up. You will now have 18 sts on your needles. First st picked up is first st of the round, beginning of round will be to the outside of the body. Be sure the beginning of the round is to the back of body for correct heel and foot placement. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method.

R2-R35: Using A, knit all sts

R36: Knit all sts in C. You will remain in C to the end of the foot.

R37-R42: Repeat R1 & R2 of Modified Loop Stitch (see notes)

R43-R62: Knit all sts

Begin the heel by working just the first 9 sts of the round, and holding the last 9 sts of the round on the cable of your needle.

Row 1: Sl1, knit to end. Turn.

Row 2: Sl1, purl to end. Turn.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 three more times until 8 total rows have been worked. You will end with a purl row. 

R1 of foot: Knit across 9 heel sts once more. Using the same needle tip, PU 6 sts from the gusset edge. Flip to the other needle tip and knit the 9 held sts. Using the same needle tip, PU 6 sts from the gusset edge. You'll now have 30 total sts and a new beginning of round with the next st to be knitted, PM to indicate beginning of round.

R2: K9, K2tog twice, K13, SSK twice (26 sts)

R3: Knit all sts

R4: K9, K2tog twice, K9, SSK twice (22 sts)

R5-R20: Knit all sts

R21: (K1, K2tog five times) twice (12 sts)

Stuff the foot now. Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the foot.

Knit the Right Leg

Repeat these instructions starting in marked st #12 from the base of the body and moving toward the outside of the body, then moving forward and picking up the same 9 sts 1 st forward to make sure the beginning of the round is to the back of the body again to make the second leg. Beginning of the round will be to the inside of the leg. 

Knit the Tunic

Tunic is knit entirely in D.

Using D, CO 52 sts onto your larger needle. PM to indicate beg of rnd and join to begin knitting the tunic in the round using Magic Loop Method:

R1-R3: (K1, P1) around

R4-R43: Knit all sts

Divide for Top:

Row 1: K8, K2tog twice, K1. Turn (11 sts)

Row 2: P11. Turn

Row 3: K6, K2tog twice, K1. Turn (9 sts)

Row 4: P9. Turn

Row 5: K4, K2tog twice, K1. Turn (7 sts)

Row 6: P7. Turn

Row 7: K2, K2tog twice, K1. Turn (5 sts)

Row 8: P5. Turn

Row 9: K5. Turn

Row 10: P5. Turn

Cut your yarn leaving a long tail for Kitchener Stitch and place these 5 sts on waste yarn or a yarn holder.

Move to the next 13 sts: Start at the inside next edge (the next st to be worked before you turned after R43)

Row 1: K1, SSK twice, K8. Turn (11 sts)

Row 2: P11. Turn

Row 3: K1, SSK twice, K6. Turn (9 sts)

Row 4: P9. Turn

Row 5: K1, SSK twice, K4. Turn (7 sts)

Row 6: P7. Turn

Row 7: K1, SSK twice, K2. Turn (5 sts)

Row 8: P5. Turn

Row 9: K5. Turn

Row 10: P5. Turn

Cut your yarn leaving a long tail for Kitchener Stitch and place these 5 sts on waste yarn or a yarn holder.

Move to the remaining 26 sts from R43:

Row 1: K1, SSK, K20, K2tog, K1. Turn (24 sts)

Row 2: Purl all sts. Turn

Row 3-Row 8: Work all sts in Stockinette St.

Row 9: Knit all sts. Turn

Row 10: P1, P2tog tbl, P3, BO next 12 sts, P3, P2tog, P1. (5 sts per side remain, 12 sts bound off in center)

Place sts of shoulders onto one needle tip, with sts from back on the second needle tip. Cut your yarn and use kitchener st to attach each shoulder to the back of the tunic, using the ends you left when you did the front shoulders (you may have to slip your sts around on your needles or use a second needle to set this up to work correctly).

Knit the Hat

Using F, CO 36 sts. PM to indicate beg of rnd and join to begin knitting the hat in the round using Magic Loop Method:

R1: (K1, P1) around

R2: (P1, K1) around

R3 & R4: Repeat R1 & R2

R5: Repeat R1 once more

R6-R17: Switch to C and knit all sts. You will remain in C to the top of the hat. Stop and place removable markers as you work:

R7: PM in sts 1 & 19 to mark for horns.

R14: PM in sts 18 & 36 to mark for horns.

R18: (K2, K2tog) around (27 sts)

R19: Knit all sts

R20: (K1, K2tog) around (18 sts)

R21: Knit all sts

R22: K2tog around (9 sts)

Cut your yarn and pull it through the remaining sts to close the hat.

Knit the Left Horn

Horns are knit entirely in F.

To Knit Separately, CO 16 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written.

R1: Using F and starting with marked st #1 on R7 of the hat, PU 8 sts, 1 stitch per round towards the top of the hat. Then, flip to other end of your needle tip, move over 1 stitch to marked st #36 from R14 of the head, and PU the same 8 sts 1 stitch over, heading toward first st picked up. You will now have 16 sts on your needles. First st picked up is first st of rnd, be sure the beginning of the round is towards the bottom of the hat for correct horn shaping. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method.

R2 & R3: Knit all sts

R4: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (14 sts)

R5: Knit all sts

R6: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (12 sts)

R7: Knit all sts

R8: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (10 sts)

R9: Knit all sts

R10: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (8 sts)

R11: Knit all sts

R12: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (6 sts)

R13: Knit all sts

R14: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (4 sts)

R15: Knit all sts

You can stuff the horns as you wish, the small samples are unstuffed, the large samples are lightly stuffed. If you do wish to stuff the horns, begin stuffing around R9. Once stuffed, cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the horn.

Knit the Right Horn

Repeat above instructions starting in marked st #19 from R7 of the hat and moving toward marked st #36 from R14 of the hat to make the second horn.

Knit the Belt

Using C and Provisional Cast On, CO 6 sts. Do not join. 

Row 1-Row 100: Knit all sts

Alternately you can not keep track of rows but just knit until the belt first snuggly around your viking’s waist.

Slip prov CO sts to the second needle. Use 3 needle bind off to attach prov cast on sts to the end sts and make the belt into a circle. Be sure to bind off on wrong side. Add buttons to the belt as desired.

Knit the Beard

Beard is knit entirely in E.

Using E and Turkish Cast On, CO 40 sts (20 loops). PM to indicate beg of rnd and join to begin knitting the body in the round using Magic Loop Method:

R1: Knit all sts from Turkish Cast On (40 total Sts)

R2: (KFB, K18, KFB) twice (44 sts)

R3-R12: Knit all sts

R13: (K1, SSK, K16, K2tog, K1) twice (40 sts)

R14: Knit all sts

R15: (K1, SSK, K14, K2tog, K1) twice (36 sts)

R16: Knit all sts

R17: (K1, SSK, K12, K2tog, K1) twice (32 sts)

R18: Knit all sts

R19: (K1, SSK, K10, K2tog, K1) twice (28 sts)

R20: Knit all sts

R21: (K1, SSK, K8, K2tog, K1) twice (24 sts)

R22: Knit all sts

R23: (K1, SSK, K6, K2tog, K1) twice (20 sts)

R24: Knit all sts

R25: (K1, SSK, SSK, K2tog, K2tog) twice (12 sts)

R26: K2tog six times around (6 sts)

Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the beard.

Knit the Mustache

Mustache is knit entirely in E.

Using E, CO 6 sts. PM to indicate beg of rnd and join to begin knitting the hat in the round using Magic Loop Method:

R1-R5: Knit all sts

R6: K2, KFB twice, K2 to end of round (8 sts)

R7: Knit all sts

R8: SSK, K1, KFB twice, K1, K2tog (8 sts)

R9: Knit all sts

R10: K3, KFB twice, K3l to end of round (10 sts)

R11: Knit all sts

R12: K3, K2tog, SSK, K3 to end of round (8 sts)

R13: Knit all sts

R14: (SSK, K2tog) twice (4 sts)

R15: Knit all sts

R16: KFB all sts (8 sts)

R17: Knit all sts

R18: K3, KFB twice, K3 to end of round (10 sts)

R19: Knit all sts

R20: K3, K2tog, SSK, K3 to end of round (8 sts)

R21: Knit all sts

R22: KFB, K1, K2tog, SSK, K1, KFB (8 sts)

R23: Knit all sts

R24: K2, K2tog, SSK, K2 to end of round (6 sts)

R25-R30: Knit all sts

Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the mustache. Don't stuff. The dip in center goes up to nose. 

Finish Your Viking

If Knit Separately: Whipstitch arms, legs, nose and ears to the body using removable stitch markers for placement reference.

If Knit In One Piece: Weave in any remaining ends.

For both: Add eyes now if you didn't earlier. Pin beard to the face so the top edge of the beards just about lines up with the bottom edge of the ears. Use a running stitch to sew across the top edge up the beard, across the face and to the other ear. Pin the mustache in place right under the nose and use a running stitch to tack it in place (I like it so the ends are not sewn down and give the stache a little more dimension. Slip the tunic over the viking’s head and the belt onto his waist. 

To make hair like on my samples, you will want to cut a bunch (read, a bunch) of pieces of hair. For my small viking the pieces were 6” long. For my bigger viking they were 12” long. The finished size is really going to depend on how long you want the hair. You can cut a couple sample pieces before you decide.

To attach each hair, and yes the hair is added one piece at a time, I put a piece of hair into my tapestry needle, run the tapestry needle under the 2 loops of a stitch, drop the needle, find the center of the piece of hair, and then tie the hair in a square knot, knotting twice to hold the hair in place. Then I move on to the next hair and the next stitch, and do the whole thing over again. And again. And again.

To determine my hairline shape, I used the decrease stitches at the top of the head as a guide, then I made a circle around the top of the head, along down behind the ear, across a straight line of what I felt would be the bottom of the hairline, and back up behind the other ear. It came out like a “D” on its side. Then, I ran two rows of hair down the center of the “D”, right next to each other, along where I wanted the part. Again I put a piece of hair into each and every stitch of these two lines. 

Lots of work I know, but I think totally worth it for the gorgeous head full of luscious locks. You can chose to leave your viking bald if you prefer!

If you need help with anything in this pattern, check out my Frequent Questions page:

http://rebeccadanger.typepad.com/rebecca_danger/frequent-questions.html

If your question is not listed, leave a comment here below and I will get back to it as soon as I am able. You can also check out the Danger Crafts group on Ravelry.

Terms Used In This Pattern Can Be Found On My Blog: http://rebeccadanger.typepad.com/rebecca_danger/2012/01/knitting-pattern-terms.html

Samples Shown In This Pattern

Small Viking:

Sapling Sock Sprouts from Cedar House Yarn in Oyster (A & F), Toasted Marshmallow (B), Smoked Porter (C), Moss (D), and Robin Red-Breast (E)

9 mm safety eyes

Us Size 0 Needles

Approx. 12” tall

Large Viking:

Old Growth Worsted from Cedar House Yarn in Oyster (A & F), Toasted Marshmallow (B), Ink (C), A Land Far Away (D), and Ginger (E)

9 mm safety eyes

Us Size 4 Needles

Approx. 17” tall

Download Danger Crafts Magnus Viking Knitting Pattern

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Happy knitting friends!

Gnome Nuggets {A Free Sewing Pattern}

Hey friends!

So, I am totally behind with this since P’s birthday was this week and his party is this weekend and I totally have a second party favor pattern to share with you for that. BUT, Wee’s birthday party this year was gnome themed. So I decided to make some quick little gnome dolls for favors for everyone. Since I find sewing to be much quicker than knitting, and I am always short on time, I decided to whip up a quick sewing pattern for my favors (which is actually what inspired my Knitted Gnome Nuggets!).

Since this was a super quick, simple sewing pattern, I decided I would share it for free with you guys. Enjoy!

Here they are from the party

Here's all that was left after the party!

Gnome Nuggets Sewing Pattern Directions

Finished Size:

13 3/4” tall, hat to toes

Materials:

8”x 8” Piece of Flannel for the Hat

3”x 6” Piece of Skin Colored Quilting Cotton for the Face

9”x 6” Piece of White Felt for the Hair and Beard

6”x 8” Piece of Black Fleece for Belt, Legs, and Eyes

8”x 10” Piece of Shirting Material for the Body

Fabrics listed are to make the exact gnomes in the photos. Use whatever combination of fabrics you have. Just be sure the belt, eyes, and beard are made from a fabric that will not fray as they are sewing using raw edges.

Stuffing

Matching thread

Needle for hand sewing to close the body

Basic sewing supplies: scissors, pins, sewing machine, iron, etc.

Optional:

Fabric paint for eyes(I used Tulip Slick )

Erasable transfer pen/pencil (I used FriXion Pens )

Chopstick to help with stuffing and turning (I like this thing too )

 

Notes:

*All seam allowances are 1/4” and included in the pattern pieces, unless otherwise noted.

*Preshink your fabric by washing and drying it before you start to sew so that your finished gnome wont become misshapen in the washing machine later. (Honestly, I didn’t do this with mine…)

*Be sure to create strong seams by back tacking (going back a couple stitches, then forward again) at the beginning and end every time you sew.

 

1.Print the Pattern

Download and print the pattern. Cut out all of the pattern pieces. 

If you print your pattern out on a heavier weight paper, like card stock, it will make it easier to cut or trace around the pieces, and the pattern will last longer if you wish to make more gnomes. Like say, if you are making 15 for party favors like I did.

 

2. Cutting

Cut your fabric as indicated on the pattern pieces. Transfer all of the marks from the pattern pieces to your fabric using a transfer/erasable fabric pen/pencil. Be sure to follow the arrows on the pieces when cutting from stretchy or patterned fabric.

 

3. Assemble Body 

With the right sides facing, sew the hat to the top of the face, as indicated on the pattern pieces. Then sew hat to the hair, as indicated on the pattern pieces. Finish the body assembly by sewing the gnome body to the bottom of the face and hair, as indicated on the pattern pieces.

 

4. Assemble the Legs and Attach the Belt

With the right sides facing, sew around the legs, leaving open as indicated on the pattern pieces. With the right sides both facing up, place the belt onto the body, as indicated on the pattern pieces, and with matching thread, topstitch around the belt. Repeat on the other body piece.

Trim up to the seam in the curves of the legs to help them lay flat once turned, and turn right sides out. Lightly stuff the legs, keeping that stopping the stuffing about 1/2” from the open edge to make it easier to attach them to the body.

 

5. Create the Face

With right sides both facing up, place beard onto the face side of the body so that the edges of the beard overlap the sides near the hat (to catch the raw edge in the seam once sewn). With matching thread, topstitch around the beard to attach it to the body. 

Once the beard is attached, use it to determine where you want your eyes to go. Pin the eyes to the body and use matching thread to topstitch around the eyes.

This can be tricky because the eyes are small. Alternately you can use fabric paint for the eyes (I like Tulip Slick), or you can use safety eyes or buttons. You could even wait until your gnome is finished and embroider on the face then. It is up to you, have fun!

 

6. Attach the Legs

With the finished end of one leg pointing up onto the body, match up the raw edge of the leg to the raw edge of the bottom of the body (as indicated on the pattern pieces). Baste across the top of the leg, about 1/8” from the edge to hold the leg in place. Repeat with second leg.

 

7. Finish Your Gnome Nugget

With right sides facing, generously pin the front of the body to the back of the body, making sure the legs are to the inside of the body. Sew around the body, leaving open as indicated on the pattern pieces. 

Trim up to the seam on the curves of the body, especially in the points of the triangle. Turn the body right side out. Stuff, using a chopstick or stuffing tool to get into the pointy bits. Use a ladder stitch, or preferred closing method, to close the top of the body.

 

 

Download Gnome Nugget Sewing Pattern Pieces

 

Pattern Terms of Use

Pattern may be used to make items for sale as long as you credit Rebecca Danger/Danger Crafts as the pattern creator at the point of sale: Please include reference to this website for online sales, or a tag or sign for in-person sales.

Pattern may not be used for mass production, just by crafters (quantities of 10 items or less at a time) unless permission is given by Rebecca Danger in writing. 

 

Happy Gnome Sewing Friends! As always, thanks for visiting me.

Gnome Nuggets {A Free Knitting Pattern}

Hey Friends! 

Guess what I have for you today............A free pattern!!!!!! Oh my gosh, how long has it been since I have a put a free pattern out on this here blog? In just-about-5-year-old Presley's terms, "It's forever and ever, and ever, and long long long long long long time." Ok, a little dramatic, but you get the idea.

I have been in an all-things-gnome mode recently, so that's what you are getting. I decided this is a perfect little fun spring pattern, a gnome to enjoy all those beautiful budding flowers out right now. And, he is done in the "nuggets" tradition, so here he is, a Gnome Nugget:

Just like Bunny Nuggets, this guy uses up little scraps of left over yarn. Just 25 yards each for the shirt and hat and 15 yards for the face and beard on the small sock weight one! 

He's a lot smaller and simpler than my Gilbert Garden gnome knitting pattern that just came out, but I think they would look great together. Alright guys, without further ado:

Download Danger Crafts Gnome Nuggets Knitting Pattern

Thanks for visiting, and happy knitting!

 

Colorwork in the Round Tutorial

Hey Friends! 

I know I mention in my Yuki Cookie Ninja knitting pattern that I was going to do a color work in the round tutorial here on the blog, yet I haven't managed to get a chunk of time to sit down and actually get it done since! But, I snagged a little time over the last weekend and here it is as promised.

This is a super picture heavy post, you've been warned!

Here we go....

I get a lot of questions about doing color work in the round in my patterns, like the Yuki face, or the heart of Louie Lovebot. When Louie came out there was some discussion in the Danger Crafts group on Ravelry of how people like to tackle this technique, and I've been feeling like I should do a post on it ever since. This is how I do color work in the round, but remember there are many different ways and something else might work better for you.

So first, get to one stitch before the spot in the pattern where you are ready to add in your second color:

Grab your second color and pull out a length about 4 times or so as wide as the section you are working. When I do color work in the round I use one piece of yarn for every two rounds of color work. Then I can avoid carrying the yarn all the way around the back of the piece AND have less ends to weave in than using one piece per round.

Now, hold up your second color so that the middle of it goes over/across the top of your first color (so incredibly handy I decided to do this on the ninja, since the colors are black and white and a great contrast in the photos!). What I mean is that the 4 times as wide piece you pulled out earlier will be the "tail" of the piece you are working. Make sense? This will give you the 4 times tail to knit in the next round.

Knit the next stitch, catching the lighter color on the back of the fabric with the darker color as you go. The next stitch to be worked now should be the first to be worked in the lighter color. You can see here it is caught in the darker yarn on the back.

Now, with the yarn still attached to your yarn, knit the next three stitches in your lighter color. The stitch you just worked where you attached the lighter color to the back of the fabric was to anchor the center of this new piece of yarn into your work. You could knit with the tail this round, then the still attached yarn the next round, but in this example I'm working with the attached yarn first. The next two photos are what the anchor point looks like on the front and the back and the third is the next 3 stitches worked.

 

Ok, once you have knit 3 stitches you are going to carry your darker yarn as you go. The general rule of thumb is 3-4 stitches between carries, but you can decide how many you are comfortable with. What I do is carry every three stitches (approximately, depending on number of stitches) the first row with my piece of yarn, then four on the second row with the tail from my same piece of yarn (again depending on how many stitches you are working with). If you carry in the same spot on every row you can get a little gap in those spots, which is why I switch it up. To carry simply place your dark yarn over your lighter yarn, just like you did in the beginning, and then continue knitting with your lighter yarn. Leave the darker yarn fairly loose, not super loose, just fairly loose on the back side. I find you can adjust the tension on the darker carried yarn up until you start knitting with it again, so I don't really bother with it until that point.

 

After the carry, knit three more stitches.

Looking at the back again, hold the darker yarn over the lighter yarn again for another carry.

Continue this knit three, carry, knit three, carry, until you have worked all of the stitches in your lighter color and are ready to switch back to the darker color. In this example I carry at stitch 3, 6, 9, 12, and 15 and am ready to start with my darker color on stitch 18.

Here's what my carries look like on the back. At this point I adjust the tension on the carries on the back, loose-ish, especially to allow for expanding when stuffing, but not looping all over the place.

Here is a picture of the carries from the front top to give you a better idea of the tension.

Ok, moving back to the darker color....simply knit the next stitch with the darker yarn. Drop the lighter at this point and don't worry about it.

After one stitch has been worked, turn to the back for the final lighter yarn carry.

I find that if I carry the lighter yarn over/across the darker time this last time it makes my final light stitch look cleaner. So hold the lighter yarn over the darker just like with the other carries.....

Then knit the next stitch like normal with the darker yarn.

Here's the final carry on the back.

Now get to a good stopping spot (the end of the needle if you are doing magic loop like me) and cut your yarn. Leave a 6"-ish tail. Long enough to tidy up and knot at the end, but you can always trim it down more later.

Finish up that round and get to the spot where you are ready to switch colors again (the next stitch this time, not one stitch before)

Pick up the tail that is already there and waiting and start stitching. I knit four stitches then do a carry on this round. As you switch colors just drop the darker color. We won't worry about it again until the first carry.

After four stitches carry the darker yarn over and across the lighter yarn, just like on the round below.

Then turn to the front and keep knitting, doing four more stitches. Keep carrying on the 4th stitch of this row, unless you come to a multiple of three where you already carried the round below. For instance carry on stitch 4 and 8, but once you get to 12, you carried on that stitch the row below, so do something like 4, 8, 11, 14, and 17. Or whatevs. Mix it up, you're the boss of your knitting.

Once you have knit all of the stitches in your lighter color, go ahead back to your darker color and knit two stitches this time (you did one in the round below). Don't worry about what your lighter color of yarn is doing as you switch.

Once those two darker yarn stitches have been work, go ahead and do a final carry with your lighter yarn over and across the darker yarn.

Tah-dah! Here's the carry and completed color section from the back.

Repeat these two rounds until you have made it through the color work section. Here I have done about half of the ninja face. 

You might find the stitches near my thumb here are loose and sloppy. Clean them up by watching the front of the fabric and gently pulling down on the ends on the back of the fabric. Gently though! Not too tight or it will pucker and not look good.

I know, no knots in knitting, right? But I do tie each set of yarn ends (from one piece of yarn over two rounds) together in a knot when I am done. I wait until I have worked several more rounds above where I am tying a knot those, as not to distort the fabric in the end. Here I have put a little knot in the back and you can see what it looks like on the front.

Once you have done all of your color section you can clean up all of those ends and trim them fairly short to tidy the whole thing up.

Here is it on the back. Look at all of those lovely carries!

Here's a close up of all those knots and shortened tails.

And one final one of the finished color work from the back.

 

I hope this has been helpful for y'all! 

Happy knitting.

 

 

It's a bird, it's a plane...........

Hey friends!

Have you seen my newest book is out? Knit Superheroes!: 12 Animals--Caped, Masked & Ready for Action is available on Amazon and in knit shops now!

I am SO excited about this one. Here are just a few of the super hero patterns from the book:

Each creature has their own little story too, just like in my first book. See why I'm excited now, huh? I can honestly say this is my favorite of my five books.

You can order it on amazon, or check your local knit shop or craft store.

Thanks for visiting and happy knitting!

 

Meet Gilbert!

Hey friends! I have ANOTHER new pattern for you. Can you believe it?!

Meet Gilbert the garden gnome!

Yeah!!! I can't tell you how excited I am about this guy! I LOVE gnomes. Like obsession love them. In fact Wee's 2nd birthday was the beginning of this month and I threw a gnome themed party for him. I plan to share the photos with you guys soon.

I tend towards the simple and stylized for most of my patterns, but this guy I decided to go detailed. And I am really glad I did.

Check out those ears, and beard, and mustache, and even those little eyebrows! I think his round nose might be one of my favorite parts. I even did a removable belt.

And, after studying the many gnomes in my collection (ahem), I decided I even needed to do hair. But what kind of hair? I decided Gilbert would need to be bald on top, since that would explain why gnomes wear their hats all the time.

Anywho. Gilbert is listed on Ravelry. He is listed on etsy. And I hope you cast him on soon! Garden gnomes are suppose to bring good luck, so not casting on might directly impact your luck for the rest of the year. I'm just saying.

Happy knitting guys! And thanks for visiting me.

Meet Another Yuki, Sewn This Time!

I didn't even mention it on my Yuki knitting pattern post, but I also made Yuki as a SEWING PATTERN!

My plan was to put this post up on Friday, right after the knitting pattern release, but since I ended up in the Walk-In clinic not once, but twice on Friday (once for me and once for Wee), here I am just getting to it now. Oh well.

I love the knitted toys. Obviously I do, I've been writing toy patterns for 7 years now. BUT, since my kids have been born, I have found I prefer the sewn toys for them to play with. I found this a little bit after P was born, but after Wee came along with his crazy allergies and we end up washing all of his stuffed toys in hot water about once a week, at the very least once every 2 weeks, knitted toys just don't stand up to that kind of abuse. So, I've started making way more sewn toys.

Also, it is very nice to have toy models at home all the time. But back to the washing. We have washed our easter chicks at least 3,587 times since last year, roughly, and they come out looking brand new every time. I have found the fleece you can get at Joanns on super sale washes up great and stays soft and looking new even after extreme washing. Well, I mean just friday, we were in the Walk-In clinic with Wee at 7:30 at night because he had thrown up at least 4 times since 3 pm and had a horrible cough that wouldn't stop. Hello laundry, right?

But I digress to laundry. The Yuki Cookie Ninja sewing pattern is available in my etsy shop. And to celebrate the release, I dropped all of my sewing patterns to 5 bucks a piece. Pretty great deal, right? The pattern comes with everything you need to make two different sizes of ninja, a small 14" tall doll and a bigger 21" tall version. Both darling. Both adored by these two boys in the photos.

Happy sewing friends!