Rebecca Danger

Magnus Ragnar the Victorious Viking {A Free Knitting Pattern with Cedar House Yarns}

Hey friends! Guess what....today is a very exciting day. I have a FREE, full-sized knitting pattern for you guys! Are you excited? I am. Wait, did I already say I was excited?

So, my friend Jen started a yarn company last year, Cedar House Yarns, and as soon as I found out, I knew we needed to do a project together. So she sent me a pile of yarn, and this is what I turned it into. I have written the whole pattern into this post, but you can also download it through the link at the bottom of this page. Just keep scrolling to find it.

Please be sure to go check out and buy some of her yarn, her colors are beautifully saturated and rich, and the bases are lovely to work with and feel great as they slide through you fingers. www.cedarhouseyarns.com The little viking was knit with her Sapling Sock Sprouts, which are only eight bucks a piece. I love it!

Here, we, go!

Magnus Ragnar the Victorious Viking Knitting Pattern

A Little Bit About Magnus Ragnar

Magnus Ragnar is named after Jen of Cedar House Yarns son. She and I have been friends for years and so when I found out she had started a yarn company, I knew we needed to collaborate. And when I thought collaborate, I immediately thought Viking since her son is Magnus Ragnar.

So, to celebrate yarn Magnus, here is a Viking poem (written by Magnus Ragnar's dad and Jen's husband, Eric the Red). In case you are not versed in Viking culture, to "go Viking" means to sail on a longship, a creation nearly synonymous with Viking culture.

Magnus has gone Viking

From wind and wave striking

His deeds sung in glory

His ancestors tell the story

Seafaring to victory

His name, sealed in history

Magnus has gone Viking

Materials

Yarn

80-110 yards of yarn for the shirt and pants (A)

50-75 yards of skin color yarn for face, nose, ears, hands, and thumbs (B)

75-100 yards of yarn for hat, boots, belt (C)

50-75 yards of yarn for tunic (D)

70-100 yards of yarn for beard and hair (E)

15-25 yards of scrap white or gray yarn for hat base and horn (F) Alternately I used the same color as the body.

Needles

40” circular needle (for Magic Loop Method) in a size about 2 sizes smaller than those recommended for your yarn (example: yarn says U.S. size 8, use a size 6, or maybe even 5 instead)

40” circular needle (for Magic Loop Method) 1 size larger than your main needle (for Tunic, creates a slightly looser fabric for a part where stuffing wont show through)

Gauge

One of the greatest things about knitting toys is gauge doesn’t matter! For those of you who detest gauging as much as me, this is the perfect project for you. Simply use smaller needles than those recommended for your yarn to create a tighter knit fabric so that the stuffing doesn’t show through. My rule of thumb is to go down 2 or 3 needle sizes from the smallest size recommended for your yarn. This also means this pattern can be worked in any size of yarn! Try sock yarn for little nugget gnome, or worsted for a medium gnome great for tucking places in your house, or bulky for a big gnome perfect for hugs.

Notions

Scissors, tapestry needle, safety eyes/buttons/scrap yarn for eyes, stuffing, 15 removable stitch markers, or 14 removable markers and one not removable (to mark beginning of round), yarn holders (optional), row counter (optional, but very helpful), pins for making up (optional), Celtic knit button (3) for belt (optional, determine size based on the finished size of your viking).

Notes

Make a Loop:

1. Knit the next stitch, hold the stitch on the needle LH needle and do not transfer it to the RH needle (as to finish the st). 
2. Bring the working yarn forward between the two needles.
3. Move your thumb to where the yarn comes between the needles. Wrap the working yarn around you thumb, and run it back between the two needles, setting yourself up to work the next stitch on your RH needle.
4. Knit the same stitch you knitted before looping, and transfer to the RH needle to complete the stitch

Note: This version of loop stitch will add an extra stitch every time you make a loop, which will be evened out with the rest of the stitch pattern.

If the making a loop part seems confusing you can check out the videos on youtube.com (Here’s one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGKlbG_tHjI). Just remember the version here is a modified version and only the loop making part is the same. 

Modified Loop Stitch

R1: (Make a loop, K2tog) around

R2: (K2tog, Make a Loop) around

Repeat these two rounds to create your stitch.

Directions

Knit the Body

The body is knit entirely in A.

Using A and Turkish Cast On, CO 36 sts (18 loops). PM to indicate beg of rnd and join to begin knitting the body in the round using Magic Loop Method:

R1: Knit all sts from Turkish Cast On (36 total Sts)

Stop and place removable stitch markers in center of CO row below 7th and 11th sts in CO row (this marks where legs will be picked up).

R2: (KFB, K16, KFB) twice (40 sts) 

R3: Knit all sts

R4: (KFB, K18, KFB) twice (44 sts) 

R5: Knit all sts

R6: (KFB, K20, KFB) twice (48 sts)

R7-R37: Knit all sts.

After R37, stop and place a removable stitch marker in 4th, 21st, 27th, and 46th sts of rnd 37. These markers will be where you pick up sts for arms.

R38 & R39: Knit all sts 

R40: (K1, SSK, K18, K2tog, K1) twice (44 sts)

R41: Knit all sts

R42: (K1, SSK, K16, K2tog, K1) twice (40 sts)

R43: Knit all sts. After R43, stop and place a removable stitch marker in 3rd, 18th, 23rd, and 38 sts of rnd 43. These markers will be where you pick up sts for the head.

placing markers for head

R44: (SSK, K16, K2tog) twice (36 sts)

Cut your yarn, leaving an 18” or longer tail. Stuff the body now. Once the body is stuffed, use the Kitchener Stitch to close up the top of the body. You will want to add your last bits of stuffing as you finish closing up the seam.

Knit The Head

The head is knit entirely in skin color.

To Knit Separately, CO 32 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written.

R1: Using B color and starting in marker from st #3 on R43, PU 16 sts, 1 per stitch to marker in st #18. Then, flip to other end of your needle tip, and heading opposite direction (toward first st picked up), PU same 16 sts starting in st #23 and working towards st #38. You will now have 32 sts on your needles. First st picked up is first st of rnd. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method:

R2-R20: Knit all sts. Place removable st markers as you work:

R9: PM in sts 1 & 17 to mark for ears

R10: PM in sts 7 & 10 to mark for nose

R12: PM in sts 7 & 10 to mark for nose

R17: PM in sts 16 & 32 to make for ears

R21: (K1, SSK, K10, K2tog, K1) twice (28 sts)

R22: Knit all sts

R23: (K1, SSK, K8, K2tog, K1) twice (24 sts)

R24: (K1, SSK, K6, K2tog, K1) twice (20 sts)

R25: (K1, SSK, K4, K2tog, K1) twice (16 sts)

Stuff the head now. Add eyes using the nose markers to help determine where they should go. Cut your yarn, leaving an 18” or longer tail and use the Kitchener Stitch to close up the top of the head. Alternately you can place the live sts on waste yarn and wait until you have knit the ears and nose before you attach the eyes. Once the eyes are in place, you can slip the sts back to your needles and close the head then. 

Knit the Nose

Nose is knit entirely in B.

To Knit Separately, CO 10 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written and whipstitch to the face once finished.

R1: Using B and starting with marked st 7 on R10 of the head, PU 4 sts, 1 stitch per stitch across the face. Next, PU 1 sts from R11 of the head, in line with the last stitch picked up from R10. Then, flip to other end of your needle tip, move up 1 round to marked st #10 from R12 of the head, and PU the same 4 sts 1 round up, toward first st picked up. Finally, PU 1 st from R11, in line with the last st picked up on R12. You will now have 10 sts on your needles. First st picked up is first st of rnd. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method:

R2:-R5: Knit all sts

R6: K2tog five times around (5 sts)

Lightly stuff the nose. Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the nose

Knit the Left Ear

Ears are knit entirely in B.

To Knit Separately, CO 18 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written.

R1: Using B and starting with marked st #1 on R9 of the head, PU 9 sts, 1 stitch per round towards the top of the head. Then, flip to other end of your needle tip, move over 1 stitch to marked st #32 from R17 of the head, and PU the same 9 sts 1 stitch over, heading toward first st picked up. You will now have 18 sts on your needles. First st picked up is first st of rnd. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method.

R2-R4: Knit all sts

R5: K2tog nine times around (9 sts)

Stuff ears as desired (samples are unstuffed). Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the ear.

Knit the Right Ear

Repeat above instructions starting in marked st #17 from R9 of the head and moving toward marked st #16 from R17 of the head to make the second ear.

Knit the Left Arm

To Knit Separately, CO 14 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written.

R1: Using A and starting with marked st #46 on R37 of the body, PU 7 sts, 1 stitch per stitch toward marked st #4. Then, flip to other end of your needle tip, move up 1 round and PU the same 7 sts 1 round up, toward first st picked up. You will now have 14 sts on your needles. Be sure the beg of the round is to the back of the body for correct thumb placement. First st picked up is first st of rnd. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method.

R2-R54: Using A, knit all sts

R55 & R56: Switch to B. Knit all sts. You will remain in B to the end of the arm.

R57: (KFB, K5, KFB) twice (18 sts)

R58: K8, PM, KFB, KFB, PM, K8 to end of round (20 sts)

R59: Knit to marker, SM, KFB, knit to 1 before marker, KFB, SM, knit to end of round (22 sts)

R60: Knit to marker, SM, KFB, knit to 1 before marker, KFB, SM, knit to end of round (24 sts)

R61: K8, remove marker, k1, place next 6 sts on waste yarn. Pulling yarn across gap, k1, remove marker, knit last 8 sts to the end of the round. 6 sts on waste yarn for thumb, 18 sts rem on needles.

R62-R71: Knit all sts. 

R72: (K1, SSK, K3, K2tog, K1) twice (14 sts)

Cut your yarn, leaving an 18” or longer tail. Stuff the hand now. Use the Kitchener Stitch to close the hand.

Knit the Thumb

Thumb is knit entirely in B.

To Knit Separately, CO 10 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 (don’t add any where you PU in R1) and work rest of pattern as written.

Place 6 sts from waste yarn onto needles. Starting on outside of thumb (away from palm), work in rnd using Magic Loop Method:

R1: K3, PU 2 from join between thumb and palm, slide sts to cable, PU 2 additional sts from same spot, K3 to end of rnd (10 sts)

R2-R7: Knit all sts

R8: K2tog five times (5 sts)

Lightly stuff the thumb. Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the thumb.

Knit the Right Arm

Repeat above instructions starting in marked st #27 and moving toward marked st #21 from R37 of the body to make the second arm. Be sure beginning of the round is to the back of the arm for correct thumb placement. Be sure to knit the second thumb as well.

Knit the Left Leg

To Knit Separately, CO 18 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written.

R1: Using A and starting in marked st #7 from the base of the body, PU 7 sts toward the outside edge of the body. Then, PU 2 more sts from the increase rounds up the side of the body (look for the “bar” from the KFB’s). Next, using the other end of your needle tip, begin at marked st #7 again, move towards the front of the body 1 stitch and PU the same 9 sts 1 stitch forward, toward first st picked up. You will now have 18 sts on your needles. First st picked up is first st of the round, beginning of round will be to the outside of the body. Be sure the beginning of the round is to the back of body for correct heel and foot placement. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method.

R2-R35: Using A, knit all sts

R36: Knit all sts in C. You will remain in C to the end of the foot.

R37-R42: Repeat R1 & R2 of Modified Loop Stitch (see notes)

R43-R62: Knit all sts

Begin the heel by working just the first 9 sts of the round, and holding the last 9 sts of the round on the cable of your needle.

Row 1: Sl1, knit to end. Turn.

Row 2: Sl1, purl to end. Turn.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 three more times until 8 total rows have been worked. You will end with a purl row. 

R1 of foot: Knit across 9 heel sts once more. Using the same needle tip, PU 6 sts from the gusset edge. Flip to the other needle tip and knit the 9 held sts. Using the same needle tip, PU 6 sts from the gusset edge. You'll now have 30 total sts and a new beginning of round with the next st to be knitted, PM to indicate beginning of round.

R2: K9, K2tog twice, K13, SSK twice (26 sts)

R3: Knit all sts

R4: K9, K2tog twice, K9, SSK twice (22 sts)

R5-R20: Knit all sts

R21: (K1, K2tog five times) twice (12 sts)

Stuff the foot now. Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the foot.

Knit the Right Leg

Repeat these instructions starting in marked st #12 from the base of the body and moving toward the outside of the body, then moving forward and picking up the same 9 sts 1 st forward to make sure the beginning of the round is to the back of the body again to make the second leg. Beginning of the round will be to the inside of the leg. 

Knit the Tunic

Tunic is knit entirely in D.

Using D, CO 52 sts onto your larger needle. PM to indicate beg of rnd and join to begin knitting the tunic in the round using Magic Loop Method:

R1-R3: (K1, P1) around

R4-R43: Knit all sts

Divide for Top:

Row 1: K8, K2tog twice, K1. Turn (11 sts)

Row 2: P11. Turn

Row 3: K6, K2tog twice, K1. Turn (9 sts)

Row 4: P9. Turn

Row 5: K4, K2tog twice, K1. Turn (7 sts)

Row 6: P7. Turn

Row 7: K2, K2tog twice, K1. Turn (5 sts)

Row 8: P5. Turn

Row 9: K5. Turn

Row 10: P5. Turn

Cut your yarn leaving a long tail for Kitchener Stitch and place these 5 sts on waste yarn or a yarn holder.

Move to the next 13 sts: Start at the inside next edge (the next st to be worked before you turned after R43)

Row 1: K1, SSK twice, K8. Turn (11 sts)

Row 2: P11. Turn

Row 3: K1, SSK twice, K6. Turn (9 sts)

Row 4: P9. Turn

Row 5: K1, SSK twice, K4. Turn (7 sts)

Row 6: P7. Turn

Row 7: K1, SSK twice, K2. Turn (5 sts)

Row 8: P5. Turn

Row 9: K5. Turn

Row 10: P5. Turn

Cut your yarn leaving a long tail for Kitchener Stitch and place these 5 sts on waste yarn or a yarn holder.

Move to the remaining 26 sts from R43:

Row 1: K1, SSK, K20, K2tog, K1. Turn (24 sts)

Row 2: Purl all sts. Turn

Row 3-Row 8: Work all sts in Stockinette St.

Row 9: Knit all sts. Turn

Row 10: P1, P2tog tbl, P3, BO next 12 sts, P3, P2tog, P1. (5 sts per side remain, 12 sts bound off in center)

Place sts of shoulders onto one needle tip, with sts from back on the second needle tip. Cut your yarn and use kitchener st to attach each shoulder to the back of the tunic, using the ends you left when you did the front shoulders (you may have to slip your sts around on your needles or use a second needle to set this up to work correctly).

Knit the Hat

Using F, CO 36 sts. PM to indicate beg of rnd and join to begin knitting the hat in the round using Magic Loop Method:

R1: (K1, P1) around

R2: (P1, K1) around

R3 & R4: Repeat R1 & R2

R5: Repeat R1 once more

R6-R17: Switch to C and knit all sts. You will remain in C to the top of the hat. Stop and place removable markers as you work:

R7: PM in sts 1 & 19 to mark for horns.

R14: PM in sts 18 & 36 to mark for horns.

R18: (K2, K2tog) around (27 sts)

R19: Knit all sts

R20: (K1, K2tog) around (18 sts)

R21: Knit all sts

R22: K2tog around (9 sts)

Cut your yarn and pull it through the remaining sts to close the hat.

Knit the Left Horn

Horns are knit entirely in F.

To Knit Separately, CO 16 sts, then just knit all sts of R1 and work rest of pattern as written.

R1: Using F and starting with marked st #1 on R7 of the hat, PU 8 sts, 1 stitch per round towards the top of the hat. Then, flip to other end of your needle tip, move over 1 stitch to marked st #36 from R14 of the head, and PU the same 8 sts 1 stitch over, heading toward first st picked up. You will now have 16 sts on your needles. First st picked up is first st of rnd, be sure the beginning of the round is towards the bottom of the hat for correct horn shaping. PM to indicate beg of rnd and beg to work in rnd using Magic Loop Method.

R2 & R3: Knit all sts

R4: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (14 sts)

R5: Knit all sts

R6: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (12 sts)

R7: Knit all sts

R8: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (10 sts)

R9: Knit all sts

R10: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (8 sts)

R11: Knit all sts

R12: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (6 sts)

R13: Knit all sts

R14: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog (4 sts)

R15: Knit all sts

You can stuff the horns as you wish, the small samples are unstuffed, the large samples are lightly stuffed. If you do wish to stuff the horns, begin stuffing around R9. Once stuffed, cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the horn.

Knit the Right Horn

Repeat above instructions starting in marked st #19 from R7 of the hat and moving toward marked st #36 from R14 of the hat to make the second horn.

Knit the Belt

Using C and Provisional Cast On, CO 6 sts. Do not join. 

Row 1-Row 100: Knit all sts

Alternately you can not keep track of rows but just knit until the belt first snuggly around your viking’s waist.

Slip prov CO sts to the second needle. Use 3 needle bind off to attach prov cast on sts to the end sts and make the belt into a circle. Be sure to bind off on wrong side. Add buttons to the belt as desired.

Knit the Beard

Beard is knit entirely in E.

Using E and Turkish Cast On, CO 40 sts (20 loops). PM to indicate beg of rnd and join to begin knitting the body in the round using Magic Loop Method:

R1: Knit all sts from Turkish Cast On (40 total Sts)

R2: (KFB, K18, KFB) twice (44 sts)

R3-R12: Knit all sts

R13: (K1, SSK, K16, K2tog, K1) twice (40 sts)

R14: Knit all sts

R15: (K1, SSK, K14, K2tog, K1) twice (36 sts)

R16: Knit all sts

R17: (K1, SSK, K12, K2tog, K1) twice (32 sts)

R18: Knit all sts

R19: (K1, SSK, K10, K2tog, K1) twice (28 sts)

R20: Knit all sts

R21: (K1, SSK, K8, K2tog, K1) twice (24 sts)

R22: Knit all sts

R23: (K1, SSK, K6, K2tog, K1) twice (20 sts)

R24: Knit all sts

R25: (K1, SSK, SSK, K2tog, K2tog) twice (12 sts)

R26: K2tog six times around (6 sts)

Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the beard.

Knit the Mustache

Mustache is knit entirely in E.

Using E, CO 6 sts. PM to indicate beg of rnd and join to begin knitting the hat in the round using Magic Loop Method:

R1-R5: Knit all sts

R6: K2, KFB twice, K2 to end of round (8 sts)

R7: Knit all sts

R8: SSK, K1, KFB twice, K1, K2tog (8 sts)

R9: Knit all sts

R10: K3, KFB twice, K3l to end of round (10 sts)

R11: Knit all sts

R12: K3, K2tog, SSK, K3 to end of round (8 sts)

R13: Knit all sts

R14: (SSK, K2tog) twice (4 sts)

R15: Knit all sts

R16: KFB all sts (8 sts)

R17: Knit all sts

R18: K3, KFB twice, K3 to end of round (10 sts)

R19: Knit all sts

R20: K3, K2tog, SSK, K3 to end of round (8 sts)

R21: Knit all sts

R22: KFB, K1, K2tog, SSK, K1, KFB (8 sts)

R23: Knit all sts

R24: K2, K2tog, SSK, K2 to end of round (6 sts)

R25-R30: Knit all sts

Cut your yarn and using a tapestry needle, pull it through the remaining sts to close up the mustache. Don't stuff. The dip in center goes up to nose. 

Finish Your Viking

If Knit Separately: Whipstitch arms, legs, nose and ears to the body using removable stitch markers for placement reference.

If Knit In One Piece: Weave in any remaining ends.

For both: Add eyes now if you didn't earlier. Pin beard to the face so the top edge of the beards just about lines up with the bottom edge of the ears. Use a running stitch to sew across the top edge up the beard, across the face and to the other ear. Pin the mustache in place right under the nose and use a running stitch to tack it in place (I like it so the ends are not sewn down and give the stache a little more dimension. Slip the tunic over the viking’s head and the belt onto his waist. 

To make hair like on my samples, you will want to cut a bunch (read, a bunch) of pieces of hair. For my small viking the pieces were 6” long. For my bigger viking they were 12” long. The finished size is really going to depend on how long you want the hair. You can cut a couple sample pieces before you decide.

To attach each hair, and yes the hair is added one piece at a time, I put a piece of hair into my tapestry needle, run the tapestry needle under the 2 loops of a stitch, drop the needle, find the center of the piece of hair, and then tie the hair in a square knot, knotting twice to hold the hair in place. Then I move on to the next hair and the next stitch, and do the whole thing over again. And again. And again.

To determine my hairline shape, I used the decrease stitches at the top of the head as a guide, then I made a circle around the top of the head, along down behind the ear, across a straight line of what I felt would be the bottom of the hairline, and back up behind the other ear. It came out like a “D” on its side. Then, I ran two rows of hair down the center of the “D”, right next to each other, along where I wanted the part. Again I put a piece of hair into each and every stitch of these two lines. 

Lots of work I know, but I think totally worth it for the gorgeous head full of luscious locks. You can chose to leave your viking bald if you prefer!

If you need help with anything in this pattern, check out my Frequent Questions page:

http://rebeccadanger.typepad.com/rebecca_danger/frequent-questions.html

If your question is not listed, leave a comment here below and I will get back to it as soon as I am able. You can also check out the Danger Crafts group on Ravelry.

Terms Used In This Pattern Can Be Found On My Blog: http://rebeccadanger.typepad.com/rebecca_danger/2012/01/knitting-pattern-terms.html

Samples Shown In This Pattern

Small Viking:

Sapling Sock Sprouts from Cedar House Yarn in Oyster (A & F), Toasted Marshmallow (B), Smoked Porter (C), Moss (D), and Robin Red-Breast (E)

9 mm safety eyes

Us Size 0 Needles

Approx. 12” tall

Large Viking:

Old Growth Worsted from Cedar House Yarn in Oyster (A & F), Toasted Marshmallow (B), Ink (C), A Land Far Away (D), and Ginger (E)

9 mm safety eyes

Us Size 4 Needles

Approx. 17” tall

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Happy knitting friends!

Gnome Nuggets {A Free Sewing Pattern}

Hey friends!

So, I am totally behind with this since P’s birthday was this week and his party is this weekend and I totally have a second party favor pattern to share with you for that. BUT, Wee’s birthday party this year was gnome themed. So I decided to make some quick little gnome dolls for favors for everyone. Since I find sewing to be much quicker than knitting, and I am always short on time, I decided to whip up a quick sewing pattern for my favors (which is actually what inspired my Knitted Gnome Nuggets!).

Since this was a super quick, simple sewing pattern, I decided I would share it for free with you guys. Enjoy!

Here they are from the party

Here's all that was left after the party!

Gnome Nuggets Sewing Pattern Directions

Finished Size:

13 3/4” tall, hat to toes

Materials:

8”x 8” Piece of Flannel for the Hat

3”x 6” Piece of Skin Colored Quilting Cotton for the Face

9”x 6” Piece of White Felt for the Hair and Beard

6”x 8” Piece of Black Fleece for Belt, Legs, and Eyes

8”x 10” Piece of Shirting Material for the Body

Fabrics listed are to make the exact gnomes in the photos. Use whatever combination of fabrics you have. Just be sure the belt, eyes, and beard are made from a fabric that will not fray as they are sewing using raw edges.

Stuffing

Matching thread

Needle for hand sewing to close the body

Basic sewing supplies: scissors, pins, sewing machine, iron, etc.

Optional:

Fabric paint for eyes(I used Tulip Slick )

Erasable transfer pen/pencil (I used FriXion Pens )

Chopstick to help with stuffing and turning (I like this thing too )

 

Notes:

*All seam allowances are 1/4” and included in the pattern pieces, unless otherwise noted.

*Preshink your fabric by washing and drying it before you start to sew so that your finished gnome wont become misshapen in the washing machine later. (Honestly, I didn’t do this with mine…)

*Be sure to create strong seams by back tacking (going back a couple stitches, then forward again) at the beginning and end every time you sew.

 

1.Print the Pattern

Download and print the pattern. Cut out all of the pattern pieces. 

If you print your pattern out on a heavier weight paper, like card stock, it will make it easier to cut or trace around the pieces, and the pattern will last longer if you wish to make more gnomes. Like say, if you are making 15 for party favors like I did.

 

2. Cutting

Cut your fabric as indicated on the pattern pieces. Transfer all of the marks from the pattern pieces to your fabric using a transfer/erasable fabric pen/pencil. Be sure to follow the arrows on the pieces when cutting from stretchy or patterned fabric.

 

3. Assemble Body 

With the right sides facing, sew the hat to the top of the face, as indicated on the pattern pieces. Then sew hat to the hair, as indicated on the pattern pieces. Finish the body assembly by sewing the gnome body to the bottom of the face and hair, as indicated on the pattern pieces.

 

4. Assemble the Legs and Attach the Belt

With the right sides facing, sew around the legs, leaving open as indicated on the pattern pieces. With the right sides both facing up, place the belt onto the body, as indicated on the pattern pieces, and with matching thread, topstitch around the belt. Repeat on the other body piece.

Trim up to the seam in the curves of the legs to help them lay flat once turned, and turn right sides out. Lightly stuff the legs, keeping that stopping the stuffing about 1/2” from the open edge to make it easier to attach them to the body.

 

5. Create the Face

With right sides both facing up, place beard onto the face side of the body so that the edges of the beard overlap the sides near the hat (to catch the raw edge in the seam once sewn). With matching thread, topstitch around the beard to attach it to the body. 

Once the beard is attached, use it to determine where you want your eyes to go. Pin the eyes to the body and use matching thread to topstitch around the eyes.

This can be tricky because the eyes are small. Alternately you can use fabric paint for the eyes (I like Tulip Slick), or you can use safety eyes or buttons. You could even wait until your gnome is finished and embroider on the face then. It is up to you, have fun!

 

6. Attach the Legs

With the finished end of one leg pointing up onto the body, match up the raw edge of the leg to the raw edge of the bottom of the body (as indicated on the pattern pieces). Baste across the top of the leg, about 1/8” from the edge to hold the leg in place. Repeat with second leg.

 

7. Finish Your Gnome Nugget

With right sides facing, generously pin the front of the body to the back of the body, making sure the legs are to the inside of the body. Sew around the body, leaving open as indicated on the pattern pieces. 

Trim up to the seam on the curves of the body, especially in the points of the triangle. Turn the body right side out. Stuff, using a chopstick or stuffing tool to get into the pointy bits. Use a ladder stitch, or preferred closing method, to close the top of the body.

 

 

Download Gnome Nugget Sewing Pattern Pieces

 

Pattern Terms of Use

Pattern may be used to make items for sale as long as you credit Rebecca Danger/Danger Crafts as the pattern creator at the point of sale: Please include reference to this website for online sales, or a tag or sign for in-person sales.

Pattern may not be used for mass production, just by crafters (quantities of 10 items or less at a time) unless permission is given by Rebecca Danger in writing. 

 

Happy Gnome Sewing Friends! As always, thanks for visiting me.

Gnome Nuggets {A Free Knitting Pattern}

Hey Friends! 

Guess what I have for you today............A free pattern!!!!!! Oh my gosh, how long has it been since I have a put a free pattern out on this here blog? In just-about-5-year-old Presley's terms, "It's forever and ever, and ever, and long long long long long long time." Ok, a little dramatic, but you get the idea.

I have been in an all-things-gnome mode recently, so that's what you are getting. I decided this is a perfect little fun spring pattern, a gnome to enjoy all those beautiful budding flowers out right now. And, he is done in the "nuggets" tradition, so here he is, a Gnome Nugget:

Just like Bunny Nuggets, this guy uses up little scraps of left over yarn. Just 25 yards each for the shirt and hat and 15 yards for the face and beard on the small sock weight one! 

He's a lot smaller and simpler than my Gilbert Garden gnome knitting pattern that just came out, but I think they would look great together. Alright guys, without further ado:

Download Danger Crafts Gnome Nuggets Knitting Pattern

Thanks for visiting, and happy knitting!

 

Maverick's Hippo Quilt {A Free Tutorial Complete With Pattern!}

Hey friends!

You ready for a hippo quilt tutorial? Here we go!

I am going to walk you through one block. I made my quilt 3 blocks wide and 4 blocks tall and it came out a perfect crib/toddler bed size at 44"w x 56"l. 

I am going to give you the directions for how I did my turned edge appliqués in the following steps. This is a great source for other ways to do turned edge appliqué. Use whatever method you like best.

You will need one 15.5"x15.5" square of of fabric for the background. I used a fat quarter for each background.

For the hippo you need a piece of scrap about 16"w x 10"t. I used another fat quarter.

You will also need some scrap pieces of black fleece around 2"x3" for the eyes and nostrils. You could also embroider on the eyes and nose by hand, or use fabric paint (I like Tulip Slick), or do any number of other options. Your choice!

Finally you will need basic sewing supplies including matching thread, a washable/disappearing transfer pen/pencil (I like FriXion), and fabric glue for the face pieces (I like Unique Stitch).

1) Cut your background fabric to be a 15.5" x 15.5" square. 

2) Download Maverick's Hippo Quilt Pattern, I recommend using printable freezer paper like this. I even included 2 ears on the pattern so you have 2 ready to go. Otherwise, print out the pattern on regular paper, then trace it onto freezer paper. Either way, cut out all pattern pieces from your freezer paper.

3) Cut out your eyes and nostrils from the fleece.

4) With the shiny side of the paper facing the wrong side of your hippo fabric, press the freezer paper with your iron to attach it to your hippo fabric. Trim around the pieces leaving roughly a 1/4" seam allowances on all sides.

5) Trim into all of the curves on the pattern to about 1/8" away from the paper. Wet the raw edges of fabric paper with spray starch. I used this one.

6) Press the edges in around the freezer paper, making sure to get right up to the paper to get the shape of the appliqués perfect. I started with my regular iron and immediately scalded my fingers, so I hopped on amazon and immediately ordered this mini iron, which worked like magic. No more scalded fingers.

7) Once you have all of the edges pressed to the back of the hippo parts, press the whole thing again from the front side, this time with a regular sized iron, to make sure everything is laying very flat. Make sure to transfer all of the marks from the pattern to your fabric, I put the eyes and nostrils on now with some fabric glue.

8) Find the center of your background fabric: fold it in half hot-dog style. Then fold it hamburger style. "X" marks the center! I press the corner when I do this to make the center cross super apparent.

9) Gently remove the freezer paper from the hippo pieces. Supposedly you can re-use it, but I ended up cutting one freezer paper template for each of the hippos in my quilt. Match up the mark on the hippo body with the center of your background and pin it in place. Using matching thread, topstitch around the edge of your hippo body, about 1/8" from the edge. Alternately you can use a zig-zag stitch, satin stitch, blanket stitch, or blind stitch to sew around the edges of your appliqués. I tried several different methods and liked the look of just topstitch around the hippos best. Also, since mine is a crib quilt I knew it would be getting a bunch of washing, so I figured just topstitching would make it fairly sturdy.

10) Once you have sewn around the body, place the head or the head pattern piece on the background, using the mark on the body to position it. Then, using the placement marks on the head, place the ears on the background fabric and pin ears in place. Remove the head for now and topstitch around the ears. (If you want to be really tricky you can do this step before sewing down the body, then sew both the ears and the body at the same time!)

11) Place the head back on the background fabric, again positioning using the mark on the body. Pin in place and topstitch around.

12) Topstitch around eyes and nostrils. Embroider them on or use fabric paint now if you prefer.

13) If you used the FriXion pen, you can remove all marks using your iron now. Or, be lazy and wait to wash your block to remove the marks.

Tah-dah! Finished block! Now make as many more as you want to make your quilt. Like I said mine is 3x4 for a total of 12 blocks for crib sized. 4x5 would make about a 60"w x 75"l lap/twin size

For your back I ordered 2 yards of the cute hippo fabric online and then realized I didn't quite enough. I love pieced backs anyways, so I found some texturey blue fabric at a local quilt shop and grabbed 2 more yards. I cut two 10.5w x 65"l hippo strips for the sides, one 9.5"w x 65"l hippo strip for the center, and two 9.5"w x 65"l blue texture strips. I sewed those together (10.5" strips on the outside) to get my back. You could certainly get away with a bit less yardage if you just ordered the right amount of one color! You would need around 3 and 5/8 yards.

My batting was a bamboo blend since I wanted to try it. It is lovely and fairly drapey and completely snuggly.

For quilting I decided I didn't want to quilt on the hippos. So, I ran down the seam, then lined up that seam up to the edge of the foot on my machine, and ran another line. Then did that again. On each side (5 lines total). That sounds complicated typing it, but it really wasn't, which is why I chose to do it! So, on every seam in the quilt there is a line of stitching on the seam, then 2 to each side of the seam. Makes sense, right? Also, I used a black and gray variegated cotton quilting thread, which you can't really see too much.

I ended up using about 2/3 of a yard of fabric for the binding. My binding I cut at 4" wide (I like big bindings, and I cannot lie...). I needed just over 200" so I did 5 strips from my 42/44" wide fabric so I would have plenty extra. I sewed it on and then finished it by folding it around to the back and pinning it in place. Then I ran a zig-zag stitch around the front of the quilt so the zig hit the binding and the zag hit the quilt. I did it in yellow to match my binding. I think it looks cute. Sometimes I do the hidden machine finish where you run in the ditch on the front and see it on the back, but I decided I didn't want to hide the fact it was machine done on this guy.

M'kay, I think that covers it. This is my first time doing a quilt tutorial, so I hope it makes sense! If you make one, share it with me! (Not so into it but I am going to start this #hastag thing, you ready?) If you make a quilt share it on social media with the hashtag #mavshippoquilt. (Am I doing this right?!)

Thanks for visiting me!

 

 

Easter Chick {a free sewing pattern and tutorial}

Hellooo! I was looking around for little gifties for the kiddos for easter this weekend and decided instead of buying some crappity-crap from china that I would end up throwing out in the near future, I would make something for them instead. To be fair I did purchase a few crappity-crap things, like parachuting bunnies, but I made a cute chick for each of their baskets, too.

I know this is late, since Easter is this Sunday already, BUT I did manage to get a free pattern put together for you all. And, if you don't think you have time to make these before Sunday, they are QUICK! It took me 1.5 hours walking into my office Sunday night to completely finished chick (this is with design work, making the pattern pieces, digging for fabric and everything). The second one I got done in an hour, with multiple kiddo interruptions and a diaper change. So, if you've got a few minutes this week, I am sure you can get a couple done for Easter baskets, too!

Ok, here we go! I am assuming you have basic sewing skills here, so this tutorial is pretty simple.

Materials

Download EasterChickSewingPatternByRebeccaDanger (click to download pattern)

1/3 yard of yellow fleece, or cuddle fabric, or whatever you want for the body

Scrap orange fleece or fabric for feet (8" x 10")

Small piece of orange fleece or felt for beak (2" x 2")

Small piece of black fleece or felt for eyes (2" x 2")

Stuffing

Needle and thread that matches the body fabric

Chopstick

Scissors

Note: Seam allowance is 1/4" and included in all pattern pieces.

Instructions

1) Cut out all pieces. Each pattern piece notes how many pieces to cut and from what fabric.

2) Place eyes and beak on body as indicated on body piece. With matching thread, topstitch around beak and eyes. No real seam allowance here, just close to the edge. The eyes are so tiny, just do the best you can. You could also use fabric paint for the eyes if you prefer.

 

3) With right sides facing, sew around wings and feet, leaving open as indicated on the pattern pieces. Sew top of back of head to bottom of back of head, leaving open as indicated on pattern pieces.

4) Trim into curves of wings and feet to help them lay flat once turned. Turn, using the chopstick to help with the toes. Lightly stuff the wings. I didn't stuff the feet, but you can if you want!

5) Using the marks on the pattern, line up the legs and wings on the body and baste in place about 1/8" from the edge.

6) With right sides facing, line up the front and back body and pin together. Sew around entire body (you do not need to leave a hole for turning since there is in an opening on the back of the body).

7) Trim into the curves of the body to help it lay flat once turned. Turn body right side out. Stuff the body. Using the needle and matching thread, close the back of the body (I use ladder stitch, you can use whatever you would like).

Stick your chicky in a kiddo's Easter basket and make their day!

My goldy chick is fleece with fleece feet, and my yellow fluffy chick is yellow cuddle fabric (I found it at JoAnn's) with quilting cotton feet. I hate working with the cuddle fabric since it poo-poos EVERYWHERE, but my goodness it makes a darling chicky! (And yes, the gold chick's feet are bigger than the fluffy chick's feet. I decided after the first one they should be slightly smaller)

There you go! I was feeling off with my creative mojo and this little project totally threw me back in line since it was so quick and satisfyingly cute once finished. If you have questions, please just post a comment below.

Have fun!

 

Hello! A Free Pattern, Another Free Pattern, And A Giveaway.

Hey guys! I am really excited to break the long blog silence with a free pattern and a giveaway! Actually, with a free pattern, a link to a SECOND free pattern, and a giveaway. Your Friday just got way better, huh? I know, I do what I can. Actually, this is all thanks to my awesome publisher, Martingale, so technically they are the ones doing what they can to make Friday better.

When I wrote Knit A Monster Nursery and turned it in, it ended up being way more projects than would fit in the allotted space. When I do things, I tend to over-do things, what can I say? Which is awesome news for you since a couple of those cut patterns are now available on their own for free. Yeah! Free is always good. Actually free is not always good, but in this case, free is very, very good!

I have this darling washcloth pattern for you:

 

Click Right Here To Download It.

 How cute is this? It is also awesome for, hmm, don’t know how put it other than, booger cleanup. I use my samples now with Peanut and his mega snotty noses. I used Berroco Weekend Chunky for the yarn which with the cotton content means softness on tender noses, plus super washability. A must with little ones, right?

I will get the file up into the sidebar here soon with my other free patterns, but I am not feeling so smart with these computery things at the moment, so help will be sought once Mr Danger is home...

If that is not enough cuteness for you (which, how much is enough cuteness, really? Is it even possible? I vote no.) Hop on over to Martingale’s blog to get another free pattern, this cutie-pie burp cloth:

This thing, I just love it. Not only is it good for cleaning up baby, ahem, barf spit up, it is a great friend for baby too. And it looks so cute draped over your shoulder. Love!

AND, as if two cutie-patootie patterns on a Friday wasn’t enough for you, I have an ebook copy of Knit A Monster Nursery to giveaway to one of you guys. Is this like the best day ever, or what? To enter, comment below telling me who you would be knitting out of Monster Nursery for. If it is yourself, that is just fine, but really I want to hear about all those cute babies and toddlers in your lives. Martingale is also hosting a giveaway, so hop on over there and enter as well! You know, "enter early, enter often?" Or, just once on each of these, but it is the same, right?

If you don’t have a copy of Knit A Monster Nursery yet, remember, if you purchase your copy on ShopMartingale.com, you get not only the hard-copy version of the book, but the ebook sent straight to your inbox as well. Awesomesauce, right? This day just keeps getting better.

I will pick a winner using a random-number generator next Friday, so be sure to get entered before then. 

Alright guys, that was so much awesome I might just need to go take a nap now. So you guys go, get knitting and giveaway entering!

Have a good weekend all-

A Gift For You!

I had big plans to have this out for you as soon as Knit a Monster Nursery was out, but, here we are.

So, you all have your copy of Knit a Monster Nursery now, right? Since you do, you have noticed the fun embroidery patterns in the front that I said are a free download on my blog, haven't you. Well here they are! I have 2 different ones, so I am going to do one this week and one next week. Woo! 

Download Dangercraftsmonsterembroidery1

All you need to do is download it (see the link above. I will be putting it in my Free Patterns thing on the side there ----->, but that means I have to remember how to do that...), print it out, then transfer to your piece of fabric by tracing it with a light pencil or dissappearing fabric marker. Then get your stitch on and embroider it on up! If you are not super comfortable with embroidery, here is a great set of tutorials to get you going from Jenny Hart.For colors, I say green for monsters is always right. You can look in my book for some color ideas, if you are stumped though.

Awesomesauce, right?! Now, go get stitching!